Rome served as the poignant backdrop for a pivotal moment in fashion this week, as the house of Valentino presented its first major runway collection since the passing of its legendary founder. Creative Director Alessandro Michele chose the historic Palazzo Barberini for an autumn/winter showcase that was as much a personal reflection as it was a tribute.
Michele, who assumed leadership of the storied brand in 2024, spoke of navigating a complex heritage. “Beauty is a constant evolution,” he remarked following the presentation, addressing the challenge of interpreting a singular aesthetic for a new era. The collection, he explained, represents a dialogue between his own vision and the enduring identity of Valentino.
The designer, renowned for his eclectic and narrative-driven work at Gucci, offered a distinct interpretation of glamour. Moving beyond pure opulence, the show was infused with a personal homage, drawing inspiration from the women of 1980s Italy—a period Michele described as one of newfound female empowerment and bold self-expression. The runway came alive with vibrant jewel tones, pronounced shoulders, and fluid tunics anchored by sleek satin belts. Denim appeared in ultra-fitted silhouettes with delicate lace detailing, paired with sheer lilac hosiery.
Michele’s training in costume design was evident in the collection’s theatrical flourishes, from statement jewellery to sculptural cuffs—elements that defy easy replication and underscore his unique creative voice. The finale, a signature Valentino red gown, served as a direct and elegant nod to the founder’s most iconic colour.
The Roman setting carried deep resonance. It was in this city that Valentino Garavani cultivated relationships with cinematic icons like Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren, effectively bridging Italian craftsmanship and Hollywood prestige. He became synonymous with the awards season red carpet, pioneering moments such as dressing a winner in vintage couture.
Michele now steers the brand amid significant industry shifts, with the Valentino house recently subject to acquisition talks. His mandate is seen as reinvigorating its stature within the competitive landscape of luxury fashion. Despite the weight of this task and acknowledging a turbulent global climate, the designer expressed a focused determination. “In times like these, creating beauty is not simple,” he said. “But this is what I know how to do.”
